EVERYDAY LIFE
Men's and women's clothes
Illustrated Chronicle: eastern and western-type clothes
No item of clothing survived from Hungary from the 14-15th centuries, so we must rely on written sources (testaments, inventories) or contemporary pictures. Besides wall-paintings, tabloids, sculptures and the miniatures of codices seals - that authorised charters - and even tombstones provide information about the history of clothes. However, medieval representations can be used as documents of cultural history only with reservations, since part of the clothes represented are 'ageless' clothes shown in pictures since the ancient times. Other parts are imitations, copies of the model work of art, and the emblems, objects seen in representations often have symbolic meaning.
King Louis the Great is depicted on the cover of the Illustrated Chronicle - from the second half of the 14th century. The ruler sitting on his throne is wearing striped clothes, a cloak with ermine lining; and the members of his escort can be divided into two groups based on their clothes: there are armed knights in western-type armour on the King's right with swords and shields and men wearing eastern-type, kaftan-like clothes on his left, holding bows, arrows and sabres. In this period this kind of duality was typical in Hungarian clothing: besides western fashion the spread of Cuman clothes could be seen from the second half of the 13th century. From the 15th century on Balkan, then, then increasingly, Turkish clothes began to spread.
The fashion of wearing loose clothes in several layers - each of these was made of the same material but they differed in colour - gathered up by the belt was still popular in the first decades of the 14th century. We can see Charles I and the carrier of his arms, Thomas Semsei, captain of the Szepes fortress, in the wall-painting of the church of Szepeshely, made in 1317. the big change in European fashion came from the 1340s, while in Hungary it came only later. The most typical characteristic feature of the new fashion trend was that the overgarments followed the outline of the body, they became tighter and shorter.
Western-type clothes
We can recognise this new fashion - which appeared first at the court in Hungary, following the clothing of western aristocracy - in the miniatures of the Illustrated Chronicle. Men's underwear were the swimming-suit-like, short underpants, the 'berhe'. We can see this in the picture which represents the self-scourging Flagellans. The 'berhe' was fastened by a string around the waist, and the colourful tights (or in other words pants, as at that time these two things meant the same item of clothing) - covering the legs - were also fastened to this. People carrying the soil at the siege of Krakow were wearing the same kind of tights - in the picture of the Illustrated Chronicle.
Shirts - worn as underwear on the upper body - became wide-spread only from the beginning of the 15th century. We can see such a shirt in the escutcheoned letter given by King Sigismund to Kistárkány: a loose, linen shirt with closed neck and sleeves, which reached to the knees. In the 14th century the colourful, tight-sleeved tunics were worn directly over the upper body. Tunics, which reached to the knee, were tight to the hips, and under the hips they were slightly looser. These tight clothes were fastened to the body by buttons, strings or straps.
Armour was worn over the tunic, coats of mail were a bit shorter than tunics. The loose coats of mail, which were gathered up by a belt at the waist and were worn over the armour in the 12-13th centuries - went out of fashion by the beginning of the 14th century. Its last representation was from 1317, on the St Ladislaus wall-painting of Kakaslomnic. Instead of the coat of mail, cloaks with hoods - reaching to the knee - or tight coats of mail were worn, or tight loin-cloths, which were made of leather and decorated at the bottom with cuts. Belts lost their function, they were moved to the hips and they had a decorative role only.
If someone wanted to be elegant, he put on a tight coat over the tunic. Louis the Great was wearing such a coat on the cover of the Illustrated Chronicle. These coats were often decorated with embroidery, lace or silver clasps. Multi-colour upper clothes or clothes sewn from stripes of various colours were quite popular. To prevent the body from extreme weather conditions or for the sake of representation a knight's cloak with precious fur lining was worn over the coat. Fashion was followed only by rich people, mainly the young dignitaries. Older people insisted on the traditional upper clothes which reached to the ankles.
We can follow the changes in men's fashion of the end of the 14th - beginning of the 15th century on the figures of the Buda sculpture findings. The overgarment, which was worn over the shirt at that time, was called the 'dolmány' [dolman/pelisse] from the end of the century. This was a kind of tunic, tight to the waist, with split sleeves. It was loose and frilly under the belt. The wide sheepskin coat ['suba'] or gown worn over the dolman or shirt was very elegant. It was made of velvet or brocade, with a fur collar or trimming, and it was often split at the side. Hats or caps decorated with feathers or fur also belonged to everyday clothes.
Leather soles were added to tights, which covered the feet as well, against wear and tear. These soles were often strengthened with other thick leather or wooden soles. Besides these dignitaries wore soft, short boots laced at the ankles, which were sometimes decorated with lace-like cuttings. These boots were not very durable, so people bought several pairs of them, just like gloves. In spite of this fact, unbroken boots were found at several archaeological openings, which were in very good condition. There was a strange thing in shoe-fashion in the 14th century: 'beaked shoes'. These shoes had very long toe-caps, which made even walking more difficult. These toe-caps were fixed by stiffenings or they were tied up. It did not spread in Hungary, though.
Eastern clothes
Long gowns or kaftans, high, pointed caps and boots with soft soles were typical Cuman clothes. Kaftans - which originated from Central Asia - were gathered at the side and just like gowns from the Far East (e.g.: that we can see on the figures on the cover of the Illustrated Chronicle) were made of decent silk. Weapon belts were important items of these clothes. Surprisingly, these belts were decorated with western motifs - according to the preserved samples. In contrast with Christian traditions, Cuman men cut off their beards and wore thin moustache. They shaved their head at the front and the remaining hair at the back was worn in a pony-tail.
Armour
The body of warriors was protected by wire or plated armour, but there were transitional armour-types between these two basic types. The wire armour was a long-sleeved shirt made of flat rings of iron wire. At endangered places of the body it was covered with protective iron plates. The scale armour was made of tiny metal sheets attached together. The popular brigand was a leather coat strengthened with iron stripes, lined with iron plates. Members of the light cavalry, first of all the Cuman, wore leather armour made of several layers of leather.
The plated armour developed from the plates covering the endangered parts of the wire armour. From the 14th century larger and larger parts were covered with plates, and by the middle of the 15th century the whole body of the warriors was covered with iron plates. A whole plate armour weighed 20-25 kgs and the independent chest-, back-, arm- and leg-plates were fixed by straps. The hands were protected by armour gloves, the feet by armour boots. A set of this armour was worth the price of several villages, so only a very few people could afford it.
There were several types of helmet in use for the protection of the head. Cylinder-shaped cauldron or pot-helmets with flat tops went out of fashion by the 14th century. Their place was taken over by cone-top helmets, which provided little space for hostile attacks. The basic type of these were cone- or bell-shaped light helmets. The neck and shoulders were protected by a wire armour, which was attached to the helmet. The face, however, remained unprotected. The totally closed bucket helmets and beaked helmets, used from the second half of the 14th century, were mush safer. In case of beaked helmets the face was protected by a holed helmet visor, which could be opened up. It was riveted to the helmet.
Knights fighting in closed armours could be recognised by the coat-of-arms painted to their shields or by the helmet decoration on the helmet. The earliest Hungarian coat-of-arms donations were in fact helmet decoration donations. Besides these the representations of shields were unimportant. We can see the helmet decoration quite clearly on Thomas Széchényi's country judge seal - it is a lion with a crown growing out of the helmet -, but the shield is missing. The helmet decoration of Angevine kings was an ostrich with a crown which bit into a horseshoe. Its representation survived on several relics. The synod of Constanz was a turning point in the use of helmet decorations in Hungary: during their foreign travels Hungarian noblemen saw western coats-of-arms, and asked Sigismund for coat-of-arms donations in great numbers.
Weapons
The most important weapon was the sword; both of its basic types were used in Hungary. The western-type double-edged, straight sword was the weapon of heavy cavalry, the bent sabre, which was widening towards the hilt, was the weapon of light cavalry. It was represented on contemporary pictures as the special feature of eastern clothing. War knives and daggers were used in short distance fights as accessories of swords. The best known crushing weapon of the age was the club. The club heads were cast from bronze. They appeared in various forms, the most popular ones were the star-head clubs.
Crushing weapons were sabres and battle axes, which were made in various forms and size. We can see battle axes on the different representations of St Ladislaus in Hungarian art: it was considered to be the attribute of the knight king, an emblem with the help of which people could easily recognise him. In the wall-paintings of the St Ladislaus legend we can see all the contemporary weapons: the king and his escort went into the battle with spears, and the enemy, the Cuman held bows and arrows in their hand. The size and form of spears depended on their use (e.g.: different spears were made for soldiers on horseback and infantrymen).
The most important long distance weapon was the bow, and its developed version, the flexbow. Bows were used first of all by Cumans in the light cavalry. In contemporary representations it was part of eastern clothing, just like the sabre, but its usage was not limited to this ethnic group. In wall-paintings, miniatures we can see bows in flexed positions, and all of these were reflex bows of the same type. The representation of quivers (arrows were stored in these) and bow protecting quivers was so clear in case of some pictures that experts could reconstruct them.
Women's clothes
The change in fashion in the 14th century had its influence on women's clothes, too. The important feature of the new fashion was that it laid a stress on the body. Instead of the closed clothes of the earlier centuries, which hid the form of the body, tight (to the waist and loose under the waist or hips) dresses with tight sleeves were worn with deep neckline. This type of clothes had to be adjusted to the body of their wearer, so the 14th century was a turning point in tailoring. The dress or skirt (at that time it was the same thing) was made of one piece, the waist part started high, under the breasts and the bottom of the dress was richly pleated.
At the beginning of the 15th century tight sleeves were replaced with loose ones: sleeves were often cut in or split, so the shoulder part of the shirt worn under the dress could be seen through these holes. This shirt also appeared in the deep neckline of the dress. Over the dress a cloak was worn against the cold, which was clipped together with a buckle or clasp at the neck. The bottom of the cloak, or sometimes the bottom of the dress was decorated with fur. The head - except for that of unmarried girls - was covered with veils or bennets. The material of these showed diversity, but the extreme trends of western fashion did not appear in Hungary.
The most fashionable clothes were worn by aristocratic girls and women. In the wardrobes of the bourgeoisie or common noblemen these appeared much later, in a low-quality version. The textile of these clothes - both men's and women's clothes - showed the social status of the owner. Golden brocade textiles, silks and velvets were worn by the members of the richest dignitary families, as they were very expensive. The textiles themselves were imported as well, but the price depended on the place of origin and quality. Everybody could find the textile he or she could afford.
Jewels
Jewels had a duel role in the Middle Ages: on the one hand they were the means of pomp and representation besides clothes, on the other (besides decorative dishes) they were the easy way of accumulating and mobilising values and treasures. Part of the jewels were used for fastening clothes, or were decorative elements on clothes. Such items were cloak clasps gathering cloaks, decorative buttons of clothes and the typical decorative elements of the age: metal buttons, rosettes, figures and heraldic motifs. Besides the original items the casts were also found.
The most important accessory was the belt. Fashionable belts of the age were the so-called 'head-dress belts' worn on the hips. The fashionable items were made of metal thread and were decorated with gold or silver plates. We can see such belts in the representations of the Illustrated Chronicle and on the secular figures of the Buda sculpture findings. Belts were worn both by men and women, and they were part of both western and eastern clothing, Golden necklaces and rings were worn by both sexes. Sometimes there were valuable crosses, relic holders or orders hanging from necklaces.
The most valuable jewels were worn at the royal court, but these did not survive. According to written sources, Charles I was buried with a golden crown on his head, boots with golden spurs and precious stones on his feet and the three knights representing the king in the funeral procession were wearing the war emblem of the king decorated with a golden crown. These knights and also their horses were wearing a lot of pearls and precious stones, even the harnesses were made of gilded silver. The king's widower, Queen Elisabeth left a golden head-dress to her granddaughters in her testament, but she also left crowns with precious stones and pearls to the Clarissan nuns of Óbuda.
The lily crown found in Sigismund's tomb at Várad was originally made as a relic crown (not for personal use) in the 14th century. The gilded silver lilies are decorated with precious stones and pearls of different colours. The decorative cloak clasps that Louis the Great donated to the Hungarian chapel of Aachen were made to the order of the court. The two bigger and four smaller gilded silver, enamelled clasps (the two bigger ones fixed the cloak in the middle and the two smaller pairs on the shoulders) represent Louis the Great's coat-of-arms. The interesting form of the bigger ones followed architectural tabloids.
The treasures found at archaeological excavations supplement the picture based on written sources and contemporary representations. The owner of the findings of Kelebia, which consists of 97 pieces, was the Ban of Macsó, Paul's wife. Among the treasures there were cloak clasps, earrings, bracelets, rings, buttons, decorative plates and discs as well. The treasure of Körmend from the 14th century also included buttons, seal-rings. The findings of Kiskunhalas also contained some clothes-mountings and rosettes. These jewels were made by Hungarian masters in a great number, according to the preserved casts.
The belts and belt-mounts are quite valuable among these treasures. The belt of Kígyóspuszta, decorated with the picture of fighting knights, was found in the one-time residence of the Cumans. When it was altered at the beginning of the 14th century, buttons with Latin writings (prayers to saints) were added to it. The belt of Felsőszentkirály with a shield decoration, whose owner died around 1350, was also found in this region. Further decorative belts were found from the end of the 14th- beginning of the 15th century: the silver plate of the Nagytállya was decorated with a hawking woman; and the belt of Kerepes was decorated with leaves.
The 14th-15th centuries was the period of founding secular orders of knighthood throughout Europe. These orders had their own emblems. There are no data about the activity of the first Hungarian order of knighthood, the St George order, founded by Charles I. Only its letter of foundation survived. But several relics of the Dragon Association - founded by King Sigismund in 1408 - were preserved. The emblem of the order, a dragon formed into a circle, was worn by the members attached to their clothes, or as a jewel, hung in the neck or on a ribbon across the shoulders. Sigismund was buried with the gold dragon hanging from his neck, but the emblem was lost during the opening of his tomb at Várad at the end of the 18th century.
The objects of everyday life
Furniture
During the 150 years between Charles I's accession to the throne and Sigismund's death everyday life changed substantially. Demands increased in every layer of society: at the beginning of the 14th century the majority of castles consisted of a tower and the surrounding wall, and the leaders of cities lived in such towers, too. By the end of the 14th century both castles and cities underwent a big change: within castle walls palaces and chapels were built, in cities two- or more-storey bourgeois houses appeared. In the villages, however, three-part houses became quite wide-spread.
According to modern standards, buildings at that time were quite unfriendly, in most of the rooms there were only one or two pieces of furniture. The most important item of furniture was the chest. First of all, it was used for storing things, since people kept everything in chests, from flour to items of smithery. But it was also used for sitting or lying. Its earliest type was the trough chest carved from one trunk, strengthened by iron stripes . The chest of Szepebéla - made in the 14th century - is a good example. Carpentered chests were made by using a more developed technique (for example, the Rozsonda chest from Nagyszeben). They appeared and spread in Hungary only in the second half of the 15th century.
Tables were not very valuable in this period: they were set up from saw-horses and plane surfaces during meals, after that the table was taken apart. People were sitting next to the table on benches; chairs were luxurious items even in the 15th century. In contemporary pictures they were firm, square, uncomfortable structures. The base of beds were similar, prism-shaped structures, and since the 14th century bed-ends were attached to these. People slept naked in bed, and there were several people sleeping in one bed. In the 15th century there were beds already in the houses of villeins, though men - according to a tradition which was preserved till the 20th century - slept near the animals, in farm houses or stables.
Besides simple items of furniture, carpets and textiles, which provided comfort, played an important role. Bedding: pillows, wadded quilts were quite valuable, they were part of dowries. Bed-clothes were important in villein houses as well - social and financial differences appeared in quantity and quality of the textiles. Only wealthy noblemen or citizens could afford carpets, though. They were used for many purposes. They covered beds or chests with them, walls were decorated with them and sometimes carpets separated neighbouring rooms.
Stove tiles, covering the floor of rooms, glass windows appeared at wealthy families only in the 15th century, and they were considered luxurious items for a long period of time. Windows were usually covered by 'lantornas' (dried pellicle of cows), or there were wooden boards in front of them in winter against the cold. The central room of village houses was the kitchen with an open fire-place. The stove of the rooms was heated from here. The heating of castles, town houses was a bigger problem. It was quite general that the majority of the rooms were not heated at all. One of the richest aristocratic families of the country, the Garai family, had two valuable houses in Buda, and only a few of the 50 rooms had a fire-place or stove.
Decorated tile stoves appeared in royal and aristocratic castles or in houses of rich citizens in the middle of the 14th century. The basic type of stoves had a square fire-place on a stone base with a tower-shaped building on top of it - which usually had an edge. They were covered with tiles or dish-shaped 'stove-eyes'. The majority of green, yellow or brown tiles were decorated with geometric forms. Most of the tiles were made after wooden or clay forms (negatives). The most beautiful ones - which were formed as a niche or were trough-shaped - were open tiles with tiny sculptures in the niches. They might have been handmade, independent works of art.
Dishes in the household
The majority of dishes in the household were clay dishes used for cooking or storing. Clay cauldrons used in the Árpád age disappeared by the 14th century and most of the dishes were planned for open-fire cooking. Clay dishes were products made by home industry, but according to archaeological findings town pottery became more and more wide-spread, too. The findings show territorial differences: in the region of Buda white ceramics were popular, while in the eastern and southern territories of the country darker ceramics were preferred. Near the western border the higher-standard grey, later yellow or red ceramics were used.
Under the influence of western import, Hungarian masters also adopted yellow or red ceramics from the 15th century. These ceramics were often covered with lead glaze. Potters made pots in the greatest number, and pot-lids were also used from the 13th century. For storing liquids different jugs, jars and bottles were used; and bowls and cups were also used during meals. The new table-dish, the clay cup and its bigger version, the chalice, appeared in the 14th century. From the 15th century clay cups were made in various forms, almost each city had its own typical form.
The representative demands of the royal court, aristocracy and wealthy bourgeosie could not be satisfied by home industry for a long time. From among imported decorative dishes the salt glazed cups of Moravia, Lostice became wide-spread, but Austrian and German clay dishes were also used. Glass-products were brought in the country by Venetian tradesmen in the 14th century for those who could afford these expensive glasses and bottles. Since the beginning of the 15th century glass products were made in Hungary, too - first by Italian masters who settled down here - but luxurious dishes were still imported.
Decorative dishes
Besides clothes and jewellery the financial situation of a family was best shown by decorative dishes. Since glass products were relatively rare, and tin dishes became wide-spread only from the end of the 15th century, in this category mainly silver, or gold-plated silver, or rarely gold dishes were put onto the ceremonial table. The abundance of gold dishes - which was described in Palatine William Drugeth's testament - was not typical even in aristocratic circles. But as far as possible everybody tried to obtain some. Among the treasures of Körmend gilded silver dishes were found, and at Kiskunhalas the treasure was hidden in a silver cup which was dropped into water.
