CÍMLAP
|
CONTENTS, PREFACE |
Contents
VOLUME I.
CHAPTER I. - Embarkation - Voyage - Ascent of the Elbe - Hamburg - Its
General Appearance - Habits of the People - The Exchange - Table d'Hôte
- General Observations
CHAPTER II. - Quit Hamburg - General Appearance of the Country -
Mecklenburg-Schwerin - Bautzenburg The Palace of Ludwigslust - Körner's
Monument - Grobow - Cross the Prussian Frontier - Remarkable Contrast
between the Two Countries - Spandau: its Fortifications, State Prison,
Church, and Crypts - The Palace of Charlottenburg - Approach to Berlin
CHAPTER III. - First View of Berlin - The Public Buildings - The Squares
- The Palace, Museum, Picture Gallery - The Government of Prussia -
Administration of the Laws - Military System - Commercial League
CHAPTER IV. - Religion and Morals - State of the Church - System of
National Education
CHAPTER V. - Potsdam - The Palace - Garrison - Church - Sans-Souci -
Saxony - The Palace of Moritzburg - First View of Dresden
CHAPTER VI. - Dresden - Its Buildings, Streets, and Exhibitions - State of
Society - The Revolution of 1830 - Its Results - Domestic Habits - Music -
Morals - The Church - Commercial Spirit
CHAPTER VII. - Saxon Switzerland - Pilnitz - Hohenstein - Schandau -
Residence there - Manners of the People - The Public Gardens - Games -
Absence of Religious Feeling - Agriculture - National Peculiarities -
Form of Worship, and Administration of the Sacrament
CHAPTER VIII. - Excursions to the Kuhstall - The Bastei - Lilienstein -
The Schramstein - Legends connected with these Places
CHAPTER IX. - Change of System in Travel - Set out on Foot through the
Bohemian Mountains - Hirniskretschen - The Parish Priest - His Style of
Living - He becomes our Guide - His Conversation - The Ancient Constitution
of Bohemia - Discontent at its Abolition - Existing State of Things -
Slender Influence of the Pope - Auffenberg - The Parsonage - The Curate
and his Party - Beautiful Scenery - Tetschen
VOLUME II.
CHAPTER I. - The Gulden Krone - Count Thun's Castle and Grounds - Glorious
Scenery - The March resumed - Superstitions of the Bohemians not Idolatry
- State of Property - Agricultural Population - Kamnitz - The Cow-herds -
Stein Jena - Hayde
CHAPTER II. - Our Landlady and Washerwoman - The Einsiedlerstein - Its
Dungeons and Hall - Its History - Inscription over the Hermit's Grave
- Lose our Way - Guided by a Peasant - His Conversation - Mistaken for
Italian Musicians - Gabel
CHAPTER III. - General Appearance of the Place - The Inn - Ludicrous
Mistakes - The Public Room - Astonishment of the People at the sight of
Englishmen - The Priests - Scene in the Tap-Room - Kindness of the People
- Our Fishing Operations - A Chasse, and a Daylight Ball
CHAPTER IV. - Our Landlord becomes our Guide - Peculiar Scenery of this
part of Bohemia - A Village Beerhouse - Travelling Mechanics - The
Torpindas - Toilsome March - Marchovides - Entertainment there
CHAPTER V. - March renewed - Scenery more and more grand - A Population of
Weavers - Hochstadt - The Iser - Magnificent River, and capital Trouting -
Starkenbach - Kindness of the Inhabitants - Carried to the Chancellor's
House - Fish the Iser again - The effect of my sport on a Religious
Procession - Supper at the High Bailiff's - Game at Chess - Take leave
of our kind Hosts with mutual regret
CHAPTER VI. - The Elbe, a Mountain-stream - We Fish it - Dine on our Fish
in a Village Inn - The Young Torpinda - Arnau - The Franciscan Convent -
Troutenau - The Wandering Minstrels - March continued - Fish the River
- Village Inn, and account of the Torpindas - First Meeting with these
formidable People in a Wood - Another Pedestrian Tourist - Aderspach -
Excellent Quarters - Remarkable Rocks - The Minstrels again
CHAPTER VII. - Walk to Shatzlar - Magnificent Scenery - Extreme Fatigue -
Our Landlord - Early associations awakened by a Scene in the Market-place
- Rest for a day - Ascent of Schnee-Koppee - Halt at a Village on the
Silesian side
CHAPTER VIII. - Warmbrunn - Objects around - Dilemma Hirschberg - How
Travellers may manage when their Purses grow light - Pass for Russians, and
derive great benefit from the arrangement - Lang-Wasser - Greiffenberg -
The Prussian Landwehr - Golden Traum - Scene in the Village Inn - Bernstadt
- Hernhut - The Hernhuters - Agriculture in Bohemia - Schlukenau - Schandau
CHAPTER IX. - The Diligence from Dresden to Töplitz - The Field of Kulm
- The Battle, and the Monuments that record it
CHAPTER X. - Töplitz - Its Gaieties - Journey resumed - First View of
Prague - General Character of the City - The Hradschin - Cathedral -
University - Historical details connected with it - The Reformation in
Bohemia
CHAPTER XI. - The Jews' Town - Visits to various Points worth noticing -
State of Public Feeling
CHAPTER XII. - Quit Prague - Journey to Brünn by Königgratz - State of the
Country - Brünn - Its Public Buildings - Absence of the Moravian Brethren
CHAPTER XIII. - Country between Brünn and Vienna - Vienna - Journey to
Presburg - Presburg - The Hungarian Constitution
VOLUME III.
CHAPTER I. - Preparations for a Pedestrian Tour - Carpatian Scenery -
Costumes - Hamlets - St. Georg - Modern - Cadets of Cavalry
CHAPTER II. - Walk to Tyrnau - Lose our Way - Overtaken by a Hungarian
Gentleman - Mr. Scultati's House - Hungarian Hospitality
CHAPTER III. - Freystadtl - The Gräfinn Erdedi - Walk to Pischtian - The
State of Society - Neustadtl - The Forstban
CHAPTER IV. - Trentschin - The Ruins - Tepla - Scene in the Banqueting
Room - Illova - Beise - Mr. De Butts - His Quarters - Sobri the Bandit
CHAPTER V. - Glen of Sullov - Protestant Population - Sillein - Fish the
Waag - Castle of Budatin - March up the Vale - Ovar Castle - Torpinda
Settlement
CHAPTER VI. - St. Marton - Curious Customs - Pursue our Walk - The
Hungarian Peasant - State of Protestantism - Of Agriculture - Mossocs -
Toilsome March - Kremnitz - Proceed towards Neusohl - Recalled - The
Gipsies
CHAPTER VII. - Kreutz - The Ruined Castle - Mr. Crawford and the Walmoden
Cuirassiers - The Bishop's Party - March to Sharnowitz' - Shemnitz - The
Mines - Austrian Cavalry - Customs of the Army
CHAPTER VIII. - Koesintz - The Convent of St. Benedict - Part from the
Cuirassiers - Countess Steinlein - Mr. Carey - Comorn - Babolna - The Farm
and Stud
CHAPTER IX. - Journey to Pesth - Ofen and Pesth - Embark for Semlin - Count
Szechenyi
CHAPTER X. - Approach to Semlin - Semlin - The Quarantine Station - The
Military Counties
CHAPTER XI.- Journey to Morovitch - Strange Aspect of Things, Animate and
Inanimate - Morovitch - Visited by the Captain - Vinkoveze - Neu Gradiska
The Vice-Ban Marchovicz
CHAPTER XII.- Novska - Difficulty of further Conveyance - Turn towards
Agram - The Inn at Dugoszella - Agram - State of Croatia as to Religion and
Civilization - Carlstadt - Count Nugent's Chateau at Bosolievo - Journey
pursued - Bad Omens - Skrad - Dalniza - The Horizon darkens - Insolence of
the People
CHAPTER XIII. - Leave Dalniza - Wild Scenery - The Carriage stopped -
Affray with the Peasantry - Wounded and Overpowered - Carried into a
Cottage - A Night among the Croats - Taken back to Dalniza - Put in Irons
- Behaviour of a Croatian Magistrate - Arrival of Mr. Hill, the English
Vice-Consul, from Fiume - Released - Fiume - The Kindness of Mr. and
Mrs. Smith
Preface
The following volumes tell their own tale, and, except in reference to
one or two points, hardly require that a sentence should be written in
explanation of them. I am aware, for example, that in the circumstances
which induced me to undertake a scheme of foreign travel, the public is
very little likely to take an interest. Yet it is due to myself, to state,
that I went abroad, not through any love of change, far less because I was
tired of my home, or of the duties attached to it; but because my medical
attendants assured me, that unless I withdrew for a season from labours
under which my constitution had greatly suffered, they could not be
answerable for the consequences. I proceeded, therefore, to the Continent,
in search of health, and I thank God that I found it.
[...]
I do not know that there is any other topic on which it will be necesary to touch. I have spoken of the Austrian government as I found it; and of the feelings of the people in Bohemia and Hungary, as they were expressed unreservedly to myself. It is for others to determine whether or not I have employed the language of moderation and impartiality. But of one thing I am quite certain, that in his dealings with the church, as well as with the sectaries which have branched off from it, the policy of Prince Metternich is controlled by marvellous sagacity. There is slender risk of the occurrence in Austria, so long as he shall preside over its destinies, of any such collision between the civil and ecclesiastical authorities as that by which Prussia is now disturbed.
[...]